| With all the shampoos, conditioners,and styling products out there, selecting the best product can be overwhelming, even for professionals! I've put together a few tips to help clarify some myths,truths, and marketing ploys to help you make a more informed decision. |
Marketing Ploy #1:
"pH Balanced"
Everything is pH balanced- meaning, everything is somewhere on the pH
scale. What you are looking for are products that are "acid
balanced". Products that are acid balanced have a pH of 2.5-5.5,
which is consistent with your body's pH balance. Baby shampoo has a
higher pH, or a higher alkalinity to match the alkalinity of the eye,
which is around 7.5, making the product "no tear" (no stinging).
Colors have a higher pH, because a higher pH opens the hair cuticle,
or the outer scaly layer of the hair, and deposits the color
molecules just below the cuticle. This is why many supermarket brands
such as Pantene, Neutrogena, and others listed below are bad for
chemically treated hair- the pH is high enough to open the cuticle
and pull out color.
Keep in mind that when you see professional lines in supermarkets,
such as Paul Mitchell, Sebastian, and American Crew- they did not get
those products from the manufacturer.
The products are most likely fake, or old products a salon could not
sell, and that's called "product diversion". Many companies such as
Paul Mitchell investigate and criminally prosecute the people who do
this, because they ruin their reputation with poor quality product.
Even if the product was perfect, supermarket and drugstores have a
higher markup rate than salons to make up for shoplifting losses. So,
even buying "professional products" at grocery stores, Costco, etc.,
is not a good idea.
"pH Balanced"
Everything is pH balanced- meaning, everything is somewhere on the pH
scale. What you are looking for are products that are "acid
balanced". Products that are acid balanced have a pH of 2.5-5.5,
which is consistent with your body's pH balance. Baby shampoo has a
higher pH, or a higher alkalinity to match the alkalinity of the eye,
which is around 7.5, making the product "no tear" (no stinging).
Colors have a higher pH, because a higher pH opens the hair cuticle,
or the outer scaly layer of the hair, and deposits the color
molecules just below the cuticle. This is why many supermarket brands
such as Pantene, Neutrogena, and others listed below are bad for
chemically treated hair- the pH is high enough to open the cuticle
and pull out color.
Keep in mind that when you see professional lines in supermarkets,
such as Paul Mitchell, Sebastian, and American Crew- they did not get
those products from the manufacturer.
The products are most likely fake, or old products a salon could not
sell, and that's called "product diversion". Many companies such as
Paul Mitchell investigate and criminally prosecute the people who do
this, because they ruin their reputation with poor quality product.
Even if the product was perfect, supermarket and drugstores have a
higher markup rate than salons to make up for shoplifting losses. So,
even buying "professional products" at grocery stores, Costco, etc.,
is not a good idea.
Marketing Ploy #2:
"Pro-V Vitamins"
What the $*&# are "pro-v
vitamins" anyways? A
trademark of something that
just coats your hair, not
anything that naturally is in
hair. These "Pro-V Vitamins"
are no better than vitamin e
oil, avocado oil, or olive
oil, all which have more
concentrated emollient
properties and can condition
hair well (and
be heavy, but if you like
using foods for hair, they
work).
Marketing Ploy #3
"Generic copies of professional products are the same thing."
We've all tried them, we want the cheap shortcut to a good product.
The fact is, while they may have the identical ingredients of the
products they are copying, they don't have the same amounts, even if
the ingredients are in perfect order. For example, my Goldwell
shampoo lists: water, sodium laureth sulfate, cocamidoproyl
betaine....etc... This may mean 40 grams of water, 30 grams of
sodium laureth sulfate, 30 grams of cocamidoproyl betaine....etc....
The generic may have 60 grams of water, 10 grams of sodium laureth
sulfate, 2 grams of cocamidoproyl betaine, etc... So, you're getting
what you pay for, and maybe less, because more water means less
concentration, and you have to use more product to have the same
effect.
"Generic copies of professional products are the same thing."
We've all tried them, we want the cheap shortcut to a good product.
The fact is, while they may have the identical ingredients of the
products they are copying, they don't have the same amounts, even if
the ingredients are in perfect order. For example, my Goldwell
shampoo lists: water, sodium laureth sulfate, cocamidoproyl
betaine....etc... This may mean 40 grams of water, 30 grams of
sodium laureth sulfate, 30 grams of cocamidoproyl betaine....etc....
The generic may have 60 grams of water, 10 grams of sodium laureth
sulfate, 2 grams of cocamidoproyl betaine, etc... So, you're getting
what you pay for, and maybe less, because more water means less
concentration, and you have to use more product to have the same
effect.
Marketing Ploy #4
"All Natural products are good for you!"/"Alcohol is bad!"
Cocaine and heroin are "all natural", does that make them good for
you? Petroleum is in many "all natural" products- its a cheap base
ingredient.
While a professional product may look very chemically composed, what
you're seeing many times is the chemical term for a natural product
once it has been hydrolyzed so it can penetrate the hair shaft. Once
a substance is broken down, it's given a chemical term, which must
be listed. This is why some product lines list the chemical name,
and follow it with the natural name of what it is derived from. For
example, cocoamphocarboxyproponic acid is derived from coconut oil,
and so is cocoamphocarboxymethylhydroxypropylsulfonate (say that ten
times over real fast). Many times when you see "alcohol" listed, it
is just a natural product broken down, such as coconut oil, or whale
sperm. (But we don't want to know we're putting whale semen on our
heads). The alcohol to look out for (which you won't find in
shampoos or conditioners- but styling products to dry in your hair
faster, and skincare to strip the skin) is SDA-40, or SD Alcohol 40.
Henna is baaaadddddd. There is a huge misconception that it is good
for your hair. But what it does is coat the hair shaft indefinitely
(until it grows out, even if the pigment fades), making it
impossible for conditioner to penetrate. You also need to notify me
or another stylist before we chemically treat your hair if you have
done henna, because henna and peroxide don't get along chemically,
and the reaction can cause your hair to literally melt. So, it would
be a bad idea to not tell your stylist that you have previously
colored your hair if you have. (Even if you use the L'Oreal or
Clairol, we need to know whats there, so we can accurately predict
what will happen when we formulate your color, because we treat
previously colored hair differently than "virgin" hair when
formulating.)
"All Natural products are good for you!"/"Alcohol is bad!"
Cocaine and heroin are "all natural", does that make them good for
you? Petroleum is in many "all natural" products- its a cheap base
ingredient.
While a professional product may look very chemically composed, what
you're seeing many times is the chemical term for a natural product
once it has been hydrolyzed so it can penetrate the hair shaft. Once
a substance is broken down, it's given a chemical term, which must
be listed. This is why some product lines list the chemical name,
and follow it with the natural name of what it is derived from. For
example, cocoamphocarboxyproponic acid is derived from coconut oil,
and so is cocoamphocarboxymethylhydroxypropylsulfonate (say that ten
times over real fast). Many times when you see "alcohol" listed, it
is just a natural product broken down, such as coconut oil, or whale
sperm. (But we don't want to know we're putting whale semen on our
heads). The alcohol to look out for (which you won't find in
shampoos or conditioners- but styling products to dry in your hair
faster, and skincare to strip the skin) is SDA-40, or SD Alcohol 40.
Henna is baaaadddddd. There is a huge misconception that it is good
for your hair. But what it does is coat the hair shaft indefinitely
(until it grows out, even if the pigment fades), making it
impossible for conditioner to penetrate. You also need to notify me
or another stylist before we chemically treat your hair if you have
done henna, because henna and peroxide don't get along chemically,
and the reaction can cause your hair to literally melt. So, it would
be a bad idea to not tell your stylist that you have previously
colored your hair if you have. (Even if you use the L'Oreal or
Clairol, we need to know whats there, so we can accurately predict
what will happen when we formulate your color, because we treat
previously colored hair differently than "virgin" hair when
formulating.)
Myth #1
"If I cut (or don't cut) my hair it will grow faster"
Your hair grows at the rate it grows, period. You can't make it
squeeze out of your follicles quicker. Most people's hair grows a
half inch per month. Trimming your hair regularly while growing it
out (every six weeks or so) will make your hair grow out healthier,
because you are making the ends that getsplit blunt again, and it
won't continue to break up the hair shaft (so you will get to your
desired length quicker due to no breakage). Picture when you split
your nail, if you don't trim or file it, it will split further-
basically the same thing happens when hair splits. Picture that
woman you saw on the bus with her hair down to her booty. Remember
how the first half of her hair was so beautiful, and the rest got
stringy and frizzy and tapered off? Thats because in an effort to
get her hair so long, she didn't get it trimmed. I can usually
accurately guess when their last haircut was ("Looks like its been
over a year"). Now, as my mom's hairdresser said to her when I was
a kid, "what is the point of growing long hair if it's going to look
like @$#& ?". The same can be applied to coloring your hair- if
you're going to invest $55-$165 (or even more) for coloring your
hair, why not invest $25 total for a good shampoo and conditioner,
instead of half that on cheap ones that will ruin all that work and
waste all your money?
There is a book called "Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic
Ingredients" by Ruth Winter. There it has a listing of most of the
ingredients used in your cosmetics(deodorants, lotions, shampoos,
makeup, etc.)- so you can see if what you're
using is good or bad.
Many cheap conditioners are composed of a lot of water, a lot of
polymers (waxes that just coat and weigh down the hair), and very
little truly conditioning ingredients.
One other thing to note to stay away from is sodium hydroxide. Many
drugstore and even some professional skincare lines use this in
their lotions. Sodium hydroxide is lye. Its what we use to relax the
hair of people who have really resistant curly hair (such as African
American hair). It is a toxic chemical, and the FDA banned more than
10% in drain cleaner. (Yes, its what unclogs your sink, by
disintegrating the materials clogging the drain). It can cause
dermatitis, and it just plain shouldn't be put on your skin every
day. Why is it there? A small amount causes a mild allergic
reaction- swelling the skin slightly- and "erasing" your wrinkles! I
think this is just plain unethical, and I won't anything from the
line if I find this ingredient, because it makes me wonder what else
that company is putting in thats toxic. In addition, long term use
of something as dehydrating as this can actually cause more
wrinkles, by speeding up the weakening of the bonds between the
epidermal and dermal layers of the skin.
Also, most people don't need to wash their hair daily unless you
work in a smoky, greasy, or dust laden environment. If you use
cheap shampoo that is too stripping, and don't wash one day, and
that day your hair gets oily, whats happening is the "acid mantle"
tells your body "Produce more oil! They're gonna strip it all
away!"- this is the same thing that happens when someone with
normally combination skin uses Stridex pads and other stripping
products, and their skin not only doesn't improve, but gets worse!
And, not even the good conditioners can condition your hair as well
as it naturally is conditioned.
The last thing to remember is that usually you can return a product
if you don't like it. I myself usually don't like everything in a
line, but many things from different lines. For example, the Aveda
Shampure shampoo is too drying and light for me (but good for others
that have fine hair), but their scalp tonic is wonderful for me (and
too heavy for others). Ask what the return policy is, and give
yourself a week to see the results- if its not working, try
something else.
Myth #2
"I should alternate my shampoos and conditioners so they work
better."
Ok, so this is sometimes true. If you're using a really waxy
product, that builds up and weighs down your hair, you should
alternate not an entire bottle, but maybe once a week with a more
stripping shampoo to remove excess buildup. But really, if you own
that many bottles of cheap product- just buy one each of the good
stuff!
Its ok if you're just sick of the smell, the name, and the way the
bottle looks. My attention span doesn't last long, and I'm always
alternating between a few lines. That is a good enough reason to
look for another line as far as I'm concerned!
"If I cut (or don't cut) my hair it will grow faster"
Your hair grows at the rate it grows, period. You can't make it
squeeze out of your follicles quicker. Most people's hair grows a
half inch per month. Trimming your hair regularly while growing it
out (every six weeks or so) will make your hair grow out healthier,
because you are making the ends that getsplit blunt again, and it
won't continue to break up the hair shaft (so you will get to your
desired length quicker due to no breakage). Picture when you split
your nail, if you don't trim or file it, it will split further-
basically the same thing happens when hair splits. Picture that
woman you saw on the bus with her hair down to her booty. Remember
how the first half of her hair was so beautiful, and the rest got
stringy and frizzy and tapered off? Thats because in an effort to
get her hair so long, she didn't get it trimmed. I can usually
accurately guess when their last haircut was ("Looks like its been
over a year"). Now, as my mom's hairdresser said to her when I was
a kid, "what is the point of growing long hair if it's going to look
like @$#& ?". The same can be applied to coloring your hair- if
you're going to invest $55-$165 (or even more) for coloring your
hair, why not invest $25 total for a good shampoo and conditioner,
instead of half that on cheap ones that will ruin all that work and
waste all your money?
There is a book called "Consumer's Dictionary of Cosmetic
Ingredients" by Ruth Winter. There it has a listing of most of the
ingredients used in your cosmetics(deodorants, lotions, shampoos,
makeup, etc.)- so you can see if what you're
using is good or bad.
Many cheap conditioners are composed of a lot of water, a lot of
polymers (waxes that just coat and weigh down the hair), and very
little truly conditioning ingredients.
One other thing to note to stay away from is sodium hydroxide. Many
drugstore and even some professional skincare lines use this in
their lotions. Sodium hydroxide is lye. Its what we use to relax the
hair of people who have really resistant curly hair (such as African
American hair). It is a toxic chemical, and the FDA banned more than
10% in drain cleaner. (Yes, its what unclogs your sink, by
disintegrating the materials clogging the drain). It can cause
dermatitis, and it just plain shouldn't be put on your skin every
day. Why is it there? A small amount causes a mild allergic
reaction- swelling the skin slightly- and "erasing" your wrinkles! I
think this is just plain unethical, and I won't anything from the
line if I find this ingredient, because it makes me wonder what else
that company is putting in thats toxic. In addition, long term use
of something as dehydrating as this can actually cause more
wrinkles, by speeding up the weakening of the bonds between the
epidermal and dermal layers of the skin.
Also, most people don't need to wash their hair daily unless you
work in a smoky, greasy, or dust laden environment. If you use
cheap shampoo that is too stripping, and don't wash one day, and
that day your hair gets oily, whats happening is the "acid mantle"
tells your body "Produce more oil! They're gonna strip it all
away!"- this is the same thing that happens when someone with
normally combination skin uses Stridex pads and other stripping
products, and their skin not only doesn't improve, but gets worse!
And, not even the good conditioners can condition your hair as well
as it naturally is conditioned.
The last thing to remember is that usually you can return a product
if you don't like it. I myself usually don't like everything in a
line, but many things from different lines. For example, the Aveda
Shampure shampoo is too drying and light for me (but good for others
that have fine hair), but their scalp tonic is wonderful for me (and
too heavy for others). Ask what the return policy is, and give
yourself a week to see the results- if its not working, try
something else.
Myth #2
"I should alternate my shampoos and conditioners so they work
better."
Ok, so this is sometimes true. If you're using a really waxy
product, that builds up and weighs down your hair, you should
alternate not an entire bottle, but maybe once a week with a more
stripping shampoo to remove excess buildup. But really, if you own
that many bottles of cheap product- just buy one each of the good
stuff!
Its ok if you're just sick of the smell, the name, and the way the
bottle looks. My attention span doesn't last long, and I'm always
alternating between a few lines. That is a good enough reason to
look for another line as far as I'm concerned!
| Good Products L'Anza Goldwell Redken Paul Mitchell Sebastian Biolage Rusk Bumble and Bumble Framesi Aveda KMS Joico American Crew Graham Webb TiGi DiFi |
| Baaaad Products Neutrogena Head n' Shoulders Pert Suave Pantene Herbal Essence VO-5 Vidal Sassoon (the products in the US that are sold in drugstores are not the same quality as the products they sell in Vidal Sassoon salons) |
Myth #3
"If I shave my hair off, it will grow back thicker (or curly)"
Now, that's just crazytalk! The texture of your hair is determined by
it's growth pattern (we're not like dolls, all of us have hair
growing in one direction or another, oftentimes on top it's forward),
and the curl by the shape of your follicle. The follicle that
produces curly hair is more "c" shaped, while straighter hair is more
oval. So, shaving your head cannot change these things. Hormonal
changes can- such as puberty, taking hormones, taking a medication
that alters your hormones, chemotherapy...these things can definitely
change your hair texture, and even color. Many of us had different
textures of hair throughout our lives. For example, when I was a
toddler I had curly hair, when I was in grammar school I had straight
hair, with a tad of wave, by puberty I had curly hair, and after a
few years of testosterone, my hair is extremely curly (I relax it-
before it was like Shirley Temple, now it's half Justin Timberlake,
half beard-hair like texture it's so tight).
On that note, getting a perm does not give you curly hair
permanently. I've heard clients say they "got a perm once and ever
since then it's been curly!". It cannot permanently alter your DNA,
and affect the hair that hasn't grown yet. What most likely has
happened was now that you know how to scrunch and have the right
products, more of your natural curl is coming out. And as far as
color lasting forever...Impossible. you wouldn't believe this, but
not too long ago I had a (first and last time) client who insisted
their that when their last stylist colored their hair, they didn't
get gray roots for six months! No, I couldn't do that, the gray roots
came back as quickly as her hair grew, and the next time she needed
it cut, it needed to be colored. I suggested it was possible she has
more gray this year than last, and that's why it might seem more
noticeable...but she wasn't having it...she's off to find a stylist
that can make her never get gray roots...
;)
"If I shave my hair off, it will grow back thicker (or curly)"
Now, that's just crazytalk! The texture of your hair is determined by
it's growth pattern (we're not like dolls, all of us have hair
growing in one direction or another, oftentimes on top it's forward),
and the curl by the shape of your follicle. The follicle that
produces curly hair is more "c" shaped, while straighter hair is more
oval. So, shaving your head cannot change these things. Hormonal
changes can- such as puberty, taking hormones, taking a medication
that alters your hormones, chemotherapy...these things can definitely
change your hair texture, and even color. Many of us had different
textures of hair throughout our lives. For example, when I was a
toddler I had curly hair, when I was in grammar school I had straight
hair, with a tad of wave, by puberty I had curly hair, and after a
few years of testosterone, my hair is extremely curly (I relax it-
before it was like Shirley Temple, now it's half Justin Timberlake,
half beard-hair like texture it's so tight).
On that note, getting a perm does not give you curly hair
permanently. I've heard clients say they "got a perm once and ever
since then it's been curly!". It cannot permanently alter your DNA,
and affect the hair that hasn't grown yet. What most likely has
happened was now that you know how to scrunch and have the right
products, more of your natural curl is coming out. And as far as
color lasting forever...Impossible. you wouldn't believe this, but
not too long ago I had a (first and last time) client who insisted
their that when their last stylist colored their hair, they didn't
get gray roots for six months! No, I couldn't do that, the gray roots
came back as quickly as her hair grew, and the next time she needed
it cut, it needed to be colored. I suggested it was possible she has
more gray this year than last, and that's why it might seem more
noticeable...but she wasn't having it...she's off to find a stylist
that can make her never get gray roots...
;)
